Repotting Plants.

Now, when it comes to this, it can be a point of contention for most plant owners. Why? When you bring in a new plant, some tend to not repot them, while others wait a while for the plant to acclimate and adjust to its surroundings, to prevent shock.

Some people like myself, I tend to repot them after bringing them in. I may wait an hour or so, but generally these plants are repotted right after they enter my home. The exception would be, if I don’t have the needed tools and accessories to make this happen.

For the plants that I’ve brought into my home, I’ve repotted them pretty much the same way, but with different mediums obviously. I’ve done this with tropical, carnivorous, some succulent types, cacti, and fairly common everyday plants that are easy to maintain.

First thing, I make certain the water used is not too warm if it’s from the tap.

If I choose to have bottled water, such as distilled water, then I’ll make sure it’s room temperature, and not too cool if it’s in a spot stored where it can get cold. Now, when I say bottled water, I don’t simply mean purchased water, but water stored somewhere in the home, for either emergencies, or just to keep room temperature, for drinking or for other purposes. It should be distilled regardless, but I digress.

Next, have your destination ready for potting. The pot should often be bigger than the one you received your plant in, so make certain that you clean it well.

Next, have your other empty pot, roughly the size of the pot which the plant came in, or bigger. This way, the soil transfer will not be too messy.

Next, go check the bottom of the plant pot with the plant in it, to check for roots coming out of the bottom. If you have this issue, trim off those roots, in order to make it easier to remove the plant from that pot, to place it in the new pot.

Next, get your medium ready.

Next, add your medium to your new pot, then mix it with water. You’ll notice, if you add the medium, it will be light, and can pile up into a big mound. That’s fine. Adding water can pull down some of that, and weigh down the soil a bit, so that it will get that moisture.

Next, get your plants ready for repotting. Squeeze the sides of the pot, to loosen the soil. Once it’s loosened enough, then go over to the spare pot, and empty that into there.

Once the soil is loosened enough for the roots to be removed easily, then proceed.

Next, make certain you have lukewarm water, in order to wash out the excess soil and whatever else may be attached to the roots of the plant. For some plants, you can get the leaves wet, while for others, this needs to be avoided. At this point, you should see the roots, clear enough to know if it’s healthy and in need of better care.

Next, go to your destination, and add water to your medium. Then, proceed to make a hole deep enough in your medium, so that you can simply add your plant to it. Once it’s in, pack the soil around it, but just enough that it covers the roots well. You can add more soil if needed, but you’ll need to add more water also.

Depending on the pot you are using, if it doesn’t have holes at the bottom, at least one, then you have to proceed with caution when watering them. This is where you may need something to check the dampness or dryness of the soil, before watering. It may take up to a week or to a month, depending on the variety of plant you are using. Often use a dry bamboo skewer or even a chopstick to see if your soil is dry. The top layer might be, but everything else may be wet, which is why you need to do this.

If you have sphagnum moss, it’s more about a change of color. Often, when it’s wet, sphagnum moss is darker, but when it’s dry, or drying out, it becomes a lighter tanned color, so look out for that. For this, you can just feel it with your fingers to check for any dryness.

For using pots with holes at the bottom, have a saucer or a tray to keep some excess water. The saucer, will keep some excess water, but it will overflow, and it can be messy. With trays, you can bottom water the plants, and still top water the plant, without water overflowing. If you have the tray, top watering isn’t needed, but optional.

After this, it’s a matter of scheduling a time to water your plants. Also, having it in a place to get proper lighting, whether it’s artificial or sunlight, that will determine where you place your plants. Both will help your plants thrive and grow. Some may even push flowers, or keep flowering if they already have flowers.

This has worked for me, but there will always be those outliers, where this isn’t going to work for very long. I explained this with certain plants, but their problems were well beyond the repotting stage.

Hacks Revisited.

When it comes to some items where I discussed in the previous journal of the name “Hacks”, I talked about getting humidity gauges from the pet store. This is still a good idea, but eventually, they do not stay fully functional after some time. If they are combined with temperature gauges, you have to worry about some things. One of those things being, if one goes bad, you have to replace the part that’s not functioning.

Also, most of those that still work, may appear to go bad, and some instances, what you need to do, for both separate temperature and humidity gauges, is to recalibrate them. Since these are standard analog/needle gauges, I can shove them in the freezer (or fridge) for maybe an hour or less. If either of them is completely unable to reset, then it’s gone.

The advantage for using these analog/needle gauges, is that they can deal with various temperatures and humidity ranges, and they are waterproof, which is a big plus. This is why they may be a bit more expensive, in the sense of being around $10 or $15 each.

There are some plant stores that may sell some small digital ones, but they aren’t waterproof. To my knowledge, this is the case, and they are also battery-powered.

If you are fortunate enough to find some plant stores that sell these, then you’re golden. I was lucky to encounter this result in NYC where I buy my plants and some accessories. I found some humidity readers/gauges, for $5 each. They do sell them in sets online, but what you may need to worry about is the longevity and consistency of each. If they go bad early, then you will have an issue, and will soon have to replace them.

Sometimes they are referred to as hygrometers, when they are either separate or combined with thermometers, and for some the displays are larger. That’s fine, as long as they do what they were made to do, then there is no issue.

Currently, I’m using a few of these, one for each area where there are plants that didn’t have these before. First thing I will look for, is to see how long they will last, and if they are in need of calibration, should it appear that nothing is changing on the display.

Speaking of calibration, I mentioned putting them in the freezer or refrigerator. Not sure if this will be the same, if I were to go about doing this with the digital ones, but I do know that since it’s battery-powered, the best thing I can do, is remove the battery and leave it out for maybe 30 minutes to an hour, and place the batteries back in, or replace the batteries if it’s needed.

So far, this is an interesting change for what’s available, and I know it can be very convenient to have these around. Some areas with lots of humidity, and wet environments like, “The Tank”, will need to waterproof gauges; so for that, the digital ones that I currently own are out of the question.

A Bit More About (My) Sundews.

For the ones that I have, there are some that may be a bit fickle, which is fine, because for the many others, they will not have such issues in just staying alive. There are many of my spoon-leaved sundews that have flowered, and some that have not flowered, but instead have withered away, and dried up. There are some that were in a similar situation, but something else occurred. That something else, was to introduce a smaller sundew underneath or besides itself. This is where I have to keep a keen eye on them, to see some of these changes.

When looking at my other sundews, the cape sundews, they are now beginning to push a flower stalk for each of those. I think it’s great to finally see this. Now, I need to feed them a bit now.

I may have stated in another journal entry, that I fed them with dried bloodworms. It is quite easy for the capes, but the spoon-leaved ones, unless they get a little bigger, that might be a bit of a challenge. To an extent, I’m almost grateful for the lingering fungus gnats that haven’t been caught by the sticky traps, or their larvae weren’t completely destroyed by the mosquito bits just yet.

There’s a part of me that now understands why it’s been said, by plant owners before me, that sundews are the easiest of carnivorous plants to care for.

Other Plants I Care For.

I’ve chosen to remove the green/white nerve plants from, “The Tank”, and place them in a separate plant pot.

I’ve mixed the soil, with some mosquito bits, to be a bit proactive in preventing any fungus gnats laying eggs to hatch into larvae making their way to eating away at the roots.
I’ll see how this works out, because removing my “inch plants”, seems to be a success. I’m hoping for the same with these plants.

I still have a few remnants of the green/white nerve plant in, “The Tank”, while the rest of the nerve plants in there are of the green/red variety.

“The Tank”, is looking more like a jungle, and I may or may not have mentioned this. The nerve plants, both types, some bloodleaf plants, parlor palms, peacock peperomias, string of turtles scattered, and creeping “jennys”, are growing endlessly. Just removing that big set of green/white nerve plants, leaves so much space currently. Not sure if I’m going to fill those spaces with new plants, or allow the rest of the plants to take on those spaces through propagations.

More to come, I guess.

Other Issues.

This is something that’s not labeled under successes, nor failures, and you’ll understand why in a moment.

The use of sphagnum moss has its advantages and disadvantages. First, the advantages. It’s a great medium for growing many types of plants, where they need lots of drainage, but also it holds moisture better than most mediums for longer periods, without the need to water them too often. Many plants can root quite well in it.

And now the disadvantages. With using sphagnum moss, you need to be aware of the problems that come with using this medium for planting. One of them being, the development of fungus gnats. Everything can be working quite well for you, but then you start to notice something. Your windows are closed, so you cannot blame anything from coming in like that. You begin to see and hear bugs, flying bugs around the place. It’s coming from the sphagnum moss that’s being used in and on your plants.

From what I understand, and I had this discussion with my plant providers, that the way to counter this, is to treat the sphagnum moss on your plants; to do this, you need to use something called, mosquito bits, and make a special kind of “tea” for watering any plants with sphagnum moss in them. Mosquito bits have something called BTI, which is said to be very effective.

This can be effective in killing fungus gnat larvae, but not the adult fungus gnats, that are flying around in your home already. You may need something like a double-sided tape nearest to the plants to aid in slowing down what’s already there.

By the way, this does work for mosquito larvae as well; after all, it’s called mosquito bits for a reason. There’s also the use of mosquito dunks, which can have similar results as the mosquito bits.

So what does BTI stand for? It’s short for, wait for it, bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (try saying that fast three times). It does take time, and I’m trying this right now. It’s a non-toxic way to rid your plants of this problem, and it’s a good idea, considering it can aid in extending your lifespan of your plants.

I’ll try this, and see how much of a difference this will make. I’ll discuss my findings in another journal in the future.

More Types Of Plants I Care For.

There is one particular plant that I’ve had for some time, and it’s been multiplying to the point, where I can’t keep them as I would like to. Thanks to keeping them in “The Tank”, they’ve been able to grow in abundance, and I’ve also watched several things occur during its growth. Because of the high humid environment inside of, “The Tank”, it can cause some plants to develop air roots, and grow quite nicely. This particular plant that I saw this in, grows quite fast. It’s so common to see this, in this particular species, it’s been given the nickname, “the inch plant”, because before you know it, it grows an inch from the last time you saw it. Its standard designation is tradescantia, and when it grows, it grows and it grows tall and fast.

I’ve not only been able to grow the initial plants, which were around three in the pot, they grew tall, to the point where I had to cut and propagate them in other areas of, “The Tank”. It didn’t take long for the tradescantia to root in the soil and then grow tall very fast. It’s just wild to see this. It took me some time to identify this one, because I just couldn’t figure out what to look for. It’s a good thing I am a recurring customer to the place where I initially bought this. Along with the parlor palms, and one red plant that I did buy from them the same time (3 for $10 at the time), it was a sight to see them grow the way that they did.

It was only a matter of time, before I had to remove the tradescantia, or a good set of them, from, “The Tank”. There maybe one or two propagations still in there, but I may remove those soon, because they are beginning to reach for the stars as well. Only difference, this one is also tangled between other plants, and even bending between those plants.

The red plant that was with those previously named, is nicknamed the bloodleaf plant, but is designation is also a nickname of sorts, Juba’s bush. This didn’t grow as fast in, “The Tank”, but it did grow, and eventually when it did start to grow, I also had to cut and propagate, like many other plants around them. Although, for one set, I’m starting to see some upward leaf curling, which isn’t a good sign. Hopefully I can remedy this, or replace the plant, with a recently rooted propagation.

It took some time for me to figure out what these were called. This way, if I needed to replace them, with a new purchase, then I would know what to ask for. I can’t say I would do so with the “inch plant”, because it grows almost like a weed, and it can propagate just as easily.

As for the parlor palms, it took some time, but once they begin to adapt inside of, “The Tank”, it was only a matter of time before seeing these plants begin to grow and display new growth. The shoots open up at the top, and eventually spread out; and with enough humidity and water in there, those leaves and the original plants increased in size. Not necessarily comparable to the “inch plant”, but its growth is still quite impressive. I’m just hoping it doesn’t outgrow its space, and touch the top of “The Tank”, like the “inch plant” often will. It’s getting very close to that, so I won’t be surprised if I have to remove some of them.

Another of these terrarium plants that I did buy, was the plant referred to as the, “peacock peperomia”, also known as the peperomia albovittata. This one tends to grow quietly, and I haven’t really noticed it for some time. Inside of, “The Tank”, I placed it in a corner, and it roots and grows with time. Nothing fast, but when you begin to notice something new, it’s spread out just enough for you to ask, “when did this happen?”

Propagating these plants, are just as easy, in this environment, because of the sustained humidity within, “The Tank”. I’ve done so for this one, maybe one time, and I have noticed that it did root quite fast already. Knowing that, it just means that I don’t need to do much in regards to having a separate area for it to grow, unless it becomes crowded. Right now, “The Tank” is becoming very crowded now, with additional plants mentioned in previous journals, so as far as I’m concerned, with these, and any terrariums that I’m using, I won’t really need to buy too many plants going forward.

I’m quite sure there are others, and it will take me some time to identify them, just like I did with the ones in this journal entry. Just know that plants of all varieties takes lots of time and patience to see any true results. Sometimes, the right environments can result in quicker results, and the right tools can aid in quicker, and better results.