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Flowering Part Two.

Most of us have seen plants flower, and it can be quite exciting, especially if you don’t see this very often, or haven’t seen this before. We should think of plants flowering, as both a good thing, and a bad thing. I will explain why this is.

You have many varieties of plants that do flower, and some that don’t. However, when you do see a plant flower, in your home, it often means you are doing something to aid in making the plant reach this goal. In some instances, it can be on purpose, versus, unintentionally. If you have a grow light, which can aid in making plants flower quite easy and fast, you will see this happen very fast. For some plants, like carnivorous plants for example, look at the venus fly trap, when the plant flowers, it will result in something both good and bad.

The good first. What’s good about seeing a VFT flower, is that you will see a different phase that this plant will experience. It takes a bit for the flower stalk to form, and that results in the next section, the bad. The bad, is that when you allow the flower stalk to grow, and depending on how you are growing your VFT, it can grow very tall, or maybe a few inches tall; 2 to 3 inches tall. It doesn’t take much, but allowing the flower stalk to grow, will take away from the traps growing, especially to full size. In some instances, the traps will stop growing, or slow down significantly, until the flower stalk is removed.

Although I did discuss most of this in the previous journal, the emphasis here, is more about the use of grow lights to speed up the process. Under other conditions, natural without such use of grow lights, this will not occur as fast, unless they are by a sunny window sill, or getting enough sun light nearest to whatever window is bringing in that sunlight.
In order to have the VFT grow traps properly, you need to cut the flower stalk, but also remember, if you have a grow light, refrain from using the setting that leads to pushing flowers in plants like these. Now, it’s not to say that you can’t use the flower stalk for propagation, which you can. I haven’t been successful with this – yet, but when I am, I’ll discuss it here.

Can I say this about other carnivorous plants? Maybe. I have sundews that have this same issue, but in a slightly different set of results. The sundews I have that are flowering right now, are of the drosera spatulata variety – the spoon-leaved sundews. These I have separated in several pots, and what I see currently, for these, are most of them pushing flower stalks. Some are continuously growing, while the leaves aren’t developing dew, or are developing dew at a very slow rate. For many of the sundew plants, when the leaves develop dew, the stems holding the dew will change to a reddish color with the dew staying clear looking more like water droplets; not all of them are this way, but I’ll explain what I mean.

There are other types of sundews, like the cape sundews, where they have some that do the same as the others, while there are some species that don’t change from green to red. The dew will be the same where they appear similar to water droplets. I have the white form cape sundew, where its leaves stay green, and the stems holding the dew, stays white. The typical cape sundew, the stems will turn red around the leaves that stay green. Now, I haven’t seen the cape sundews create flowers just yet, but when I do, I’ll discuss it here.

THIS JUST IN: My cape sundews are starting to push flower stalks. It’s curly at first, but it’s likely to stretch out and show something. In its curled state, I’m still seeing some beginnings to a flower developing, so it looks like it’s going to flower on both of my capes.

Point is, the sundews may slow down their dew production, when pushing flower stalks. Some are capable of both, while others, not so much.

We also have this issue more with pitcher plants, but I haven’t seen this for myself; not yet anyway. This does not just affect the growth of pitchers, but also the development of digestive fluid in existing pitchers. When I see this, I’ll discuss what I find here.

Having flowers grow, is often a trade-off of producing dew, or traps, which can be bad on the surface. Removing the stalks can be a quick enough fix, so that we can see the plants grow like they normally would. It’s even better for propagation, if it’s possible. VFT flower stalks are good for propagation, whereas sundew or pitcher plant flower stalks may not be. This isn’t about propagation, so I’ll move on.

For some other types of plants, non-carnivorous, you may not see this problem. I haven’t come across plants other than carnivorous ones that I’ve encountered with this problem. My coleus plants seem to be just fine, and I don’t feed them anything like fertilizer either. I’ve had some tropical plants or those that are in that setting, which is my big terrarium, “the tank”, where this isn’t the case. As stated, this may be an issue with the carnivorous plants making their ability to capture prey, being compromised from producing flowers. Since I haven’t see this with other types of plants, that I know of, it’s not really a trade-off in the same way it would be for carnivorous plants.

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Failures Revisited.

When it comes to failures, there’s a way to look at them. It’s not always what I did nor what I didn’t do. In some cases, it’s the plants, but I shouldn’t take it personally. In these cases, it’s quite the learning experience. As discussed in the previous journal of this title, there were many plants that I couldn’t successfully grow, such as the lavender plants.

Unfortunately, I can say the same about these same plants in this entry. That one is the Kawaii Soiree catharanthus, aka White Peppermint. For a bit, it was growing and flowering quite well. Eventually it just dried up, and couldn’t recover, no matter what I did. Now I compared this to the lavender plant, because when it dried up, it basically went through the same process, but with one exception. The white peppermint, was continuously flowering, where the lavender was peaked when it comes to flowering. When it started to change, and began to just give up on itself, by no coincidence, it was when the weather transition occurred from summer to fall.

Sometimes, simple seasonal and weather transitions will be the catalyst to some plants simply not making it. This has been the case, whereas moving them from a well-lit area, to an area that’s not exposed to enough light, even with a grow light presence, will not be enough to keep it alive. Truthfully, this is really the only one that I’ve had this experience with, in that last scenario described. Oh well.

Lots of failures can be attributed to a plant’s desire or need for a special kind of comfort and environment, while others can simply be attributed to human error. In many cases, for those that don’t make it, it may be because it didn’t get enough sunlight, whether it’s indirect or direct sun, depends on the plant. For others, they may not have received enough water, or they just didn’t have the right kind of water. In some instances, we have to be very watchful and self-aware of what we are doing, because the only way the plants can respond, is by certain actions an inactions. For example, for many plants, if you don’t water them enough, the leaves will wilt, and be somewhat droopy in appearance. If there isn’t enough sunlight, many plants won’t be green, or won’t get greener; instead, they’ll likely become a dull brown color, or something else that’s not showing a bright color. If it gets too much sunlight, it may burn the leaves of the plants. So, it’s not enough to just give it the basics, and just leave them alone, and then come back a month later. That’s not a good idea.

Usually, when you realize that a plant couldn’t make it, especially of a specific variety, you can regroup, so that those failures of the past, become present and future successes.

When looking back at the white peppermint mentioned here, was that really a failure on my part? Yes and no. I say yes, because maybe I didn’t catch the warning signs fast enough. I say no, because after a while, it just didn’t want to reacclimate in a not so bright setting. It happens, and maybe in the future, should I receive another like that one, then it can be seen as a success from what I’ve learned from caring for this one.

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Fertilizer.

At this time, I don’t use fertilizers in my plants. Well, to be fair, this isn’t the case with some of my carnivorous plants. This is only the case, if I’m feeding them. Here’s what I know. When carnivorous plants are either feeding themselves by catching prey, or being fed by hand, those plants will use what they consume, to get the nutrients they need, to advance their growth. The truth is, they don’t really need to feed or to be fed, but they do need sunlight and water, at the very least.

There are a variety of ways we help plants grow with fertilizers, and they can work like a booster, nearing the equivalent of how steroids or growth hormones work in mammals per se.

You have plenty of fertilizers to choose from, however, the pros and cons may result in influencing whether or not you want to invest in fertilizers.

Now, for some people, hydrogen peroxide or H2O2 is often used, when diluted of course, as a type of fertilizer for plants. When I say that, understand that when you hear fertilizers, for plants, they are boosters for plants, as explained previously. Now, how does hydrogen peroxide work as a fertilizer for your plants? It works this way, to boost the oxygen intake in your plants’ roots, and their leaves. The issue with using it, is that you do need to dilute it with water. THIS IS A MUST!

You also have to make certain that you dilute it enough so that it doesn’t burn and damage the roots and the leaves. This can happen if you don’t dilute hydrogen peroxide with enough water. This may vary, but on the safe side, you water to H2O2 ratio should be around 3 to 1 or 5 to 1. The high ratio should be towards the roots, and the lower ratio should be for spraying the leaves.

Too high a concentration, can lead to burning of the roots and the leaves, and this isn’t just this way with H2O2, but this can happen with all types of fertilizers. By the way, H2O2 is easy to find in most (if not all) pharmacies. You can say this might be a hack, if you are looking for a safe enough way to fertilize your plants. DO YOUR RESEARCH FIRST!

You have many types of fertilizers, but you have to know what’s best for smaller plants and bigger plants. Many are powdered, some are already in liquid form, and others are in solid chunks or sticks. Brands like Miracle Gro, are known for making all types of fertilizers. Best way to begin, is to start off as small as possible. Look at the instructions first, because even your efforts to not use too much, may still be too much.

Now, we do know that grow lights can work to advancing the growth in plants, without adding anything other than special lighting to manipulate the plants’ growth and the speed of that growth. I wouldn’t advise using fertilizers of any kind, if you are using grow lights; just my opinion. I only suggest against it, because it could stress out the plants, more than they already are.

Without going into details, using fertilizers, isn’t really my thing, because of using grow lights, and seeing the success in growing my plants so far. For my carnivorous plants, regardless of feedings, they are doing well. So me personally, I don’t need fertilizers at this time.

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Seasons.

Some plants can thrive in any part of the year indoors, but it doesn’t mean that they won’t be affected when the seasons change. What do I mean by this? If we see that they need regular sunlight, and they are by a window with bright or not-so-bright sunlight, depending on where you are, it will affect the plants and how they grow.

You may not be in a place that has all four seasons, or even something closer to two or three of them. But for argument’s sake, I’ll discuss the impact of all four seasons on plants outside, and indoors.

Winter.

We can see this as the season for most plants to already be in dormancy. For some trees, and bushes, this won’t always be the case. Some may be in a slow down, and some may have their leaves become a duller color, due to having less sunlight, and rain (water).

Spring.

Once plants come out of Winter, they begin to transition to their normal routines. Sometime after that, they will begin to bloom as the weather get warmer.

Summer.

For lots of plants, the flowering begins, and stays this way during the Summer months. Since they get much more sunlight during this period, it’s great for flowers to be produced, along with any fruit, which will more likely be seen in the Fall.

Autumn or Fall.

This is when the weather gets colder, and for some trees and bushes, the leaves will being to change color, and start falling. Leaves aren’t the only things that Fall from the trees and bushes. You have this from fruits (berries, nuts, etc.) also, and they will be known for falling during these months.

Those will affect most outdoor plants, regardless of how big or how small they are.

Now, of course, being indoors, the plants that you own, can thrive without having to be exposed in these extreme conditions, like Winter and Summer. The exception would be the plants and their owners, living in a place where there’s always Winter, or always Summer.

The areas where you are more likely to have Winter all year, are within the most Northern parts of the Northern Hemisphere, just as the areas closer to, at, or below the equator, which is near or within the Southern Hemisphere. Notice that dormancy doesn’t really come for warm weather extremes, because this is all year round. Those trees and bushes adjust quite well to these surroundings.

With the plants you have indoors, the issue is making the place comfortable in either instance, both for you, and the plants you own. Just like with the environments you live in (see environment) you need to adjust your surroundings, and know where the plants should be, and keep them there. Make those plants as comfortable as you possibly can, and you’re good to go.

There are some places, where the annual season, is either like Spring or Fall, is ideal for plants, and there are only so many places on Earth that are this way throughout the year. For those like many reading this, if you can’t have your home in such an ideal setting, how about adjusting your home, where it can be such an ideal setting.

Most of these steps, can be viewed in journals such as temperature/humidity, and lighting, as a potential guide to helping make this work for your plants, and for you. After all, you breathe out what your plants breathe in, just as your plants breathe out what you breathe in.

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Dormancy.

It can be confusing to those that haven’t seen this, and even worse for those that don’t understand what dormancy is. It’s similar to what we know as hibernation, but for plants.
We know this about certain plants, when the colder months arrive, or when they experience that cold snap, and slow down on their growth. This can also result from less sunlight, which occurs during those months.

Most of the time, when looking at certain trees, bushes, and plants, we do know that some will lose their leaves, and there are some that won’t. In many instances, for the ones that don’t, may be seen as the types that don’t go dormant. It doesn’t mean that’s the case, across the board.

As far as house plants, I do have a variety of plants that go through a dormancy period. Much of why this is, often comes with the weather changes, and for some, environmental changes.

A good variety of carnivorous plants go through dormancy periods, but when you purchase them, depending on the vendor or outlet, will be indicated whether or not they should or will go through some kind of dormancy. Other plants will go through dormancy, but it’s not often indicated, nor discussed whether it happens. It may be recommended, depending on how or if you bring it up.

For the most part, if you know the types of plant you have, such as a tropical plant, it should more than likely go into a dormancy period, if it’s in a cold weather environment. It’s even more the case, when there isn’t any natural light sources nearby, to create the photosynthesis known for plants to thrive.

Is there a way to counter dormancy in plants? Yes, and all these steps need to be done to be successful in countering dormancy.

First, get some grow lights. Artificial lighting such as these grow lights, will bring the light sources needed for plants to create that photosynthesis, and it does help on days with less sunlight. It will also help if you have plants that may be near a window or an area that doesn’t get direct or even indirect sunlight.

Second, keep the plant in a warmer area. If you notice the plant is slowing down in some way, check to see if it’s cold in that spot. If it’s near a window, and cold breezes become more frequent, shut the window, or move the plant somewhere else, where it’s warmer. Oh, by the way, make certain that the area you place the plant, isn’t too close to a heat source, like a radiator, so that it doesn’t cook your plant, and dry it out.

Third, keep watering the plant as you normally would. Keep things routine, and you can see continued growth.

Can this work for all plants? No, but there are some that are successful in a process similar to what I just described. Some plants actually need dormancy, so do your research on which ones are said to require dormancy.

As long as the plants feel any indication of cold weather coming on, and less light, they will slow down. They won’t die, but they will appear to be dying. They are not, they are just going into dormancy. As long as you have the tools and information to understand why it happens, and how it can be avoided if this is the path you choose, then you shouldn’t have a problem.

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Other Types Of Plants That I Care For.

This may be a short journal at this time. Most of the plants I care for, I’ve mentioned previously. One that I didn’t mention, was my experience with the orchid. It’s an interesting plant, where I’ve purchased it, after it has flowered. In a natural setting, they will be this way for the spring and summer months.

The same orchid that I had, all of the flowers, which was four of them, dried up, and all that was left was the stem and the leaves at the bottom.

For those that don’t know about orchids, they can survive without blooming or growing flowers, but also have their leaves continuously grow. I have one that has grown after that, and yes, I did attempt to propagate, unsuccessfully.

Potting the orchid wasn’t hard, but it did take some extra things I didn’t have. Luckily for me, where I bought it, I was gifted some wood chips so that I can use that to give the orchid a good setting to grow. It’s medium included sphagnum moss, those same wood chips I mentioned (some use cedar, and maybe that’s what I have, but I’m not going into detail with this), and some rocks at the bottom (optional). I give them enough water, and have them by a South facing window which gives lots of sunlight throughout the year, and there we go.

I only recently repotted and relocated the orchid to be under a grow light, to see if the results would change. Since I just put it there, prior to writing this journal, I can’t supply an update until enough time has passed.

Hopefully when that happens I will have some flowers blooming, and better growth in its new pot.