Tag: lava rock

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Soil/Media.

Often, it’s decided when growing plants, which type of medium to grow them in. I bring this up, because it’s not always the case that you should use soil or soil varieties to grow plants. It’s true that plants can grow in a variety of settings, including without any type of media.

I can attest to using a variety of soils, and other mediums to grow plants. I can also attest to the ones I haven’t used yet, but may in the future. I’ll discuss this in better detail.

For most of my plants, the standard regular plants, they often are planted in peat moss, often referred to as sphagnum peat moss. It is made from sphagnum moss, but I can’t explain the procedure other than allowing it to decompose, and it’s basically reused as soil, which is what I’m using for most of my plants. It seems to be quite similar to regular soil you would have trees and plants growing outdoors, which is why many are good in this medium.

I have had some failures due to external factors, some of which may involve premature or constant transferring of plants from one setting to the next, but other than that, they have worked well in peat moss.

For other plants, you have a mix of mediums, and we do know of others, that aren’t often used by themselves. There are reasons for that. It’s not to say that it can’t happen, because there are some people that can prove that certain mediums can be used separately. Perlite, often is mixed, because of its light texture. It’s as light as Styrofoam, but is often mixed with heavier mediums like peat moss and sphagnum moss. You may have to experiment with perlite, but just know how light it is.

NOTE: When preparing perlite, wear some type of protection over your mouth and nose, because the sediment can get into your lungs quite fast.

It’s not good breathing this stuff in, so be careful, and should you decide to use perlite, get masked up, for using this even for light and short term uses.

Perlite is known for aiding in proper drainage, to most plants, when especially mixed with other mediums like peat moss.

Various mixes of mediums, can have bits and pieces of lava rock, and when using rocks like lava rock, in much bigger sizes, they can be used for providing a spot for plants to have roots grip and grow onto them. The bigger pieces are used more for decorative purposes, but it’s ability to have plants attach themselves to these rocks, are beneficial to an extent. This is best to have them in terrariums because of the moisture and humidity inside. With the pieces, which are often as small as pebbles and gravel, to dust, these mixed with other mediums provide the ability to have better drainage, compared to those other mediums alone.

Let’s look at sphagnum moss, and how it’s often used. In this journal, I’m referring to the dried tan colored variety sold in many different stores, often long fibered. You will see them in pet stores as well, either in tan or green. This is most commonly used for lots of tropical and carnivorous plants. Many recommend using this because of its ability to hold water, and keep the plants hydrated for longer periods, compared to other types of media. It’s not good for all types of plants, and you may have to ask an expert, and do your own research of how not to use sphagnum moss, in this manner.

I did discuss rocks, lava rocks previously, but when it comes to a planting medium, small rocks can provide a good way to keep plants stable, if they have difficulty to stand on their own, after growing tall. Notice with other mediums, you may see these plants droop because the leaves are heavy, but the stems are light. In many instances, you have to add some rocks to keep them upright, or have them lean against something like a bamboo skewer, or if it’s sharing space with other more sturdy plants, use them to balance the plant until they grow strong enough to be on their own.

For the former, having them surrounded by rocks, will help, and it can also help with having less water, to prevent over watering. I currently have two “lucky bamboo” plants in individual containers, with rocks and water only. The roots are fine, they aren’t so much that the roots are all over the place, but, it’s doing well enough for the bamboo plants to grow leaves. Maybe over time, if the conditions are good enough, I might see some flowers.

Fingers crossed!

Special mixes, often are sold for a certain price, depending on where you choose to go. Personally, I recommend for the better price, some hardware stores, compared to plant stores, may sell them for a lesser price. Some may go as much as half the cost. This is just from shopping around. You may get a good set for example, for around $7, where in some plant stores, and even other hardware stores, you might pay near double that, or three or four dollars more.

With that said, make your choices wisely. I use a tropical mix, for my terrarium plants in, “the tank”. I use a good enough set, where the plants and their roots can spread enough to be satisfied with the settings. That mix, has the lava rock pieces that I mentioned previously, throughout the entire mix. I use this mix with other plants, but I try to keep this mix away from my carnivorous plants.

For the carnivorous plants, I may alternate from time to time, between sphagnum moss only, peat moss only, or a mix of peat moss and perlite. I do know that many carnivorous plants sold, will often be on displayed for sale, and are often covering the roots with soil, usually peat moss wrapped and covered with a light paper covering, and the rest being sphagnum moss. Growing them at home, it’s actually the reverse, but without the light paper covering. This can result in the plant getting more water and moisture. This is one of the methods I used previously, when keeping most of these carnivorous plants, VFTs especially, in smaller terrariums.

Air plants of course, are plants that need water, but no mediums, because they have no roots. I don’t know of other plants, that don’t need plant mediums of any kind; not yet anyway.

To add to this, you can grow some plants with simply immersing them in water. I’ve seen this done, and for some it works just fine. My mother had a very viney plant that grew in a big bowl of water, and it kept growing until the water evaporated, and eventually the plant died, due to our absence from the residence. Otherwise, no type of medium was needed for stability of any kind. In fact, water is often a good source for propagating leaf cuttings, which is also why this is good all on its own for maintaining most (if not all) plants.

Just like with rocks, you do have options such as leca, which can be used similarly to how I used the pepples and gravel for my “lucky bamboo” plants. They are generally lighter, because they are clay pebbles, which may not work for all types, but for the ones that do, the success rate may be quite high. I haven’t used this just yet, but I hear them recommended regularly, from plant vendors and online recommendations. At some point, I may check this option out, and then I’ll follow-up.

You have also coco peat, which I haven’t pursued yet, but if I do get some, I’ll use it and document my findings.

There’s also sand. Many say that it’s not a good medium, or substrate to grow plants. Yet, it’s good to mix with peat moss and other types of media, for better drainage. There are a variety of sources that show plants successfully growing in sand. Wait! How can they say that’s not possible, when we tend to see some plants growing at the beach? One day, I will try that for myself, just to see it be possible, with my own eyes.

There are much more, and I could not add anymore to this list. Over time, that will change.

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Terrariums.

For me, I’ve seen more successes and failures in this scenario, but to be fair, it’s the best trial-and-error scenarios for some plant lovers and hobbyists. It shows creativity, and also aids in seeing something very different in how some plants thrive in a closed environment.
There are a variety of terrariums that I’ve used where I’ve had a variety of results. I’ve used many different types of plants, and many of these plants would be seen as either tropical or are boosted in tropical environments.

Closed terrariums can create tropical environments. Many go the route of putting not just soil and plants in them; those happen in the end. Preparing them, it’s a bit more detailed. This is the case for both open terrariums and closed terrariums. I’m dealing with both.
With the open terrariums, expect to have things be room temperature all the way.

Depending on how wide the top of each terrarium will be, the less likely any humidity would remain in it. Let’s say it has a narrow top, maybe an inch or two in diameter, it may take a bit longer for the humidity to reduce, and evaporate on through that small opening. With that opening, air will get in so those plants will get some slightly drier air. If it’s wide, then there won’t really be any humidity on a large scale, it will be short-lived at best, and whatever the atmosphere in the environment happens to be, then you will see the terrarium and the plants within acclimate to that environment.

Terrariums with wide tops, are quite similar to most planters, but with false bottoms. I’ll explain this in a bit. In general, terrariums are often put together, with false bottoms. It may not be the case for all, but for many that I’ve seen online, and what I’ve put together myself, this is the case.

When looking at these false bottoms, it’s a way of creating that layer where plants will not find themselves having their roots growing out of control. It’s also a way for better drainage of excess water. With terrariums, if it’s warm enough, that water that drains at the bottom, can and will evaporate, rather than stay sitting in that area.

Many false bottoms are made with pebbles, or small rocks, and this can help with allowing the water to sink below the layer of soil that’s used. Some people use perlite for false bottoms, which can be a problem because it’s so light. In my opinion, perlite is best used, when mixed with other mediums like peat moss.

With covered terrariums, the idea of false bottoms are often used, and only so much water is used for them. This way, that water can go through that phase of slowly evaporating, but that water cycles itself, back to the top, and back to the bottom, keeping the plants and soil hydrated for longer periods. This way, the need to water them frequently won’t be necessary.

It may be optional, but for some people who swear by this, the use of springtails is key to aid in giving the plants what it needs in closed terrariums. Why? Springtails can feed on mold and algae that develops in the terrarium. In return, they produce the CO2 that benefits the plants in the terrarium.

For those that don’t use them, they can go about opening their terrariums, to air them out a few times a month, maybe once a week or every two weeks. I do this to prevent mold and algae from building up.

I have some small to moderate sized terrariums, where I have some with false bottoms, much like I described earlier, with some viney plants like “baby’s tears”, “creeping figs” or “creeping jennys” (maybe), nerve plants aka fittonia, and for some, I also have maybe a few pieces of lava rock, that took some time to break up into smaller pieces (that’s for another journal). For soil, it may vary, but it’s primarily peat moss.

For my biggest terrarium, “the tank”, which is a 10-gallon fish tank, used for this purpose instead of having aquarium. This one took lots of trial-and-error, but after some time, I think I got it right.

When it comes to, “the tank”, it’s literally like a mini-jungle under glass. What it took to make this work, took lots of trial-and-error. First attempt, will be discuss in a bit. That involved the many carnivorous plants that I had in the beginning. Now, I will say that I made an error, which resulted in a few of them not lasting for very long, including my favorite one, the red dragon, but it was a learning experience all the same.

For that time, I did go the route of using standard peat moss and perlite mix, or just peat moss, to have the plants grow in that tank, while still potted. Eventually, I began to see some of them grow, and my red dragon did produce a flower stalk, which I initially thought it was a good thing. It may have been from stress, but it continued to grow for a while, and produce a few traps here and again. The nepenthes x lady luck did okay for a while, but wasn’t too fond of the settings after a while. Eventually it stopped producing traps, and eventually didn’t survive. The standard small venus fly trap, grew a bit, but it didn’t grow for very long. So, as far as the tank is concerned, it’s hit and miss with the carnivorous plants inside “the tank”.

I tried re-acclimating the red dragon outside of the tank, but it went into shock, shriveled up, and that was the end.

The second attempt was very different. This is when I went with that false bottom, but with perlite, about maybe half an inch. I covered that layer with a plastic wire mesh, to keep the layer of soil used separate from the perlite. I used about an inch peat moss for this, and all of what I did worked. I had some sphagnum moss in there to cover some of the plants that were in there. I would water, every now and again, along with spraying, to keep whatever plants I had in there happy and hydrated. Now, add to this, something to cover “the tank” with a cover, and that cover would have plastic wrap taped to the cover. This kept the humidity contained for a bit longer.

I had the idea of giving “the tank” some extra humidity, so I fixed up a small humidifier to push the mist into “the tank”, to boost the moisture and humidity for those plants. Things were great for a while, until I began to notice the water was building up, to the point where things got more and more difficult to maintain. What do I mean? Well, the perlite, that was at the bottom of “the tank”, came to the surface, and was floating atop of the little pond that developed, as a result of the water levels rising from using the humidifier.

I added some plants like the “lucky bamboo”, and some extra rocks for the sake of holding them in place. I broke it into three pieces, and one I didn’t place in there. One made it, and I had it propped up with small stones made for fish tanks. Things were just too cluttered, with the sphagnum moss, the perlite, and the excess water, I chose to do something different.

Eventually, changes needed to be made. So, I emptied “the tank” and tried something different.

I emptied “the tank”, then started over. I used fish tank pebbles, for the drainage layer, and went the route of using enough for about half an inch. Just like before, I used plastic wire mesh to separate the soil, which I used a tropical mix, which has more pieces of lava rock in them. I filled it to about two inches. Afterwards, I tried something else. I used some sheet moss to cover the background, giving it that optimal green look that you would see with most outdoor plants.

I added some plants I recently bought, one was a parlor palm, another was what’s called either a bloodleaf or a “Juba’s bush”, and the other main one, maybe it’s called a “watermelon peperomia”. I also added some small lava rocks, made specifically for fish tanks. Because I layered the sheet moss throughout “the tank”, I put them in the middle to cover up a plant where it could root and grow better. I can’t identify that particular plant, but what I can say from its origin, is that it was growing out of a nepenthes x lady luck that didn’t quite make it in my first attempt with “the tank”. I grew that in the smaller closed terrariums for a while, and it grew quite big, but after it outgrew that terrarium, I brought it over to the tank, where it’s growing well to this day.

Unfortunately, with the lava rocks, because they sat on top of the sheet moss, the moss began to suffocate, and develop a bad smell, so I had to remove those rocks. Also, when doing that, I had to prop up that same little plant, which got taller, with bamboo skewers and some dental floss. I eventually did this with other plants that grew tall, but leaned a lot to the sides. When removing the stones, the plant developed roots that hooked onto the rock, creating a different kind of problem.

I eventually added more plants, like the “creeping Jenny”, and “string of turtles”, but I also removed a good set of the sheet moss. I removed the sheet moss, because in large amounts, it develops a smell, once it sets on top of the dampened soil. I found this out with other terrariums. So, instead of using the large patches of moss, I’ll use small patches, or trim off the top, and layer that in “the tank”, for where I didn’t have any plants just yet.
Things got better since then, and to monitor the humidity, which I did when I started this project, I added a humidity gauge to “the tank”. This way, I can monitor the humidity properly.

After some time, the plants rooted, and grew quite fast. Some a bit slower than the rest, but they grew. Most of them over time, developed air roots, because the humidity was so high. There was one plant, where it grew so fast, that I had to cut them in half, and propagate them much quicker than the others. Eventually, it grows so fast, that it literally touches the tank cover. This led to me not propagating anymore, but rather removing them, and rooting them into peat moss for small plant pots. I’ve done this with a few of them, with some propagations still in “the tank”.

There were other plants that I added, such as nerve plants, and for one set, the green/white one, that not only thrived with continued growth and fast rooting, but it also emitted an interesting scent. It was more like a minty scent, but for a while it had me worried. It turns out it was very happy, and either the smell subsided, or I simply got used to it, and didn’t notice it after a while.

For many of the plants, if I can help it, and actually have room, I can use “the tank” to grow them, and then bring them out and place them into plant pots, because they are content as long as they get the essentials.

Speaking of essentials, since this is a fish tank, I can’t position it near a window, so grow lights are a must. This benefits from having grow lights, are to mimic what plants receive from sunlight. For “the tank”, I had a three-neck grow light, actually I have two of them, both powered through USB connections. I set the timer for both, but one of them burned out the adapter. This grow light helped the plants in “the tank” grow with the needed essentials that I can’t provide otherwise.

So, as far as the environment for those plants, this worked out, and continues to work out. No need for springtails or anything to prevent mold or algae. I just air it out every now and again. “The tank” is my biggest and best terrarium, because it helps the plants in there thrive, and some of them even began to push flowers. I haven’t really seen this take place with the other plants in other terrariums, aside from the open terrarium, with several spoon leaf sundews pushing flower stalks already. That’s a result of the grow light, and its programmable settings to make this happen.

Just like with most indoor settings, grow lights are a must, and that will be explained in another journal.

In conclusion, for now, terrariums can be good, for those that may want to put something together, and then leave it alone. Now, when I say leave it alone, I don’t mean neglect it. Every now and again, look to it maybe later in the week, maybe two days or more, to see any progress. If there are problems, you can take a few minutes to adjust, maybe longer if it’s vital. However, just like with plants outside of these settings, they need maintenance, and occasional hydration. This will be more of a controlled environment for many of these plants inside terrariums to thrive, even for a little while. Fertilizer, not needed either.