Tag: propagation

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Maintenance: Plant Propagation.

I’ve had some difficulties with propagations with my “string of turtles”. It’s more because of its placement, and to add to that, the humidity had dipped well below 50%. Understandable, at this point, there’s the solutions going towards giving this plant a humidity dome, or any covering that traps the humidity. This can be as simple as using plastic wrap to cover the tops of the plant pot. For some plants, this works. For others, it doesn’t and often results in the development of mold, and the end of the plant’s life will soon follow.

I’ve gone the route of looking through the pot with the “string of turtles”, and what I’ve seen is that the plant is well rooted into the top soil, and is still currently growing. For the vines and exposed leaves on the vines, I chose to remove those and put them in another location.

This location, was another terrarium, where I filled it with both sphagnum moss and sheet moss. I of course soaked and squeezed out the excess water, prior to placing them inside of the terrarium, followed by the “string of turtle” cuttings. Since the humidity levels are still quite low, it has to be covered at all times, maybe I’ll remove the cover for an hour or so, on a weekly basis. I’ve decided to do so once a week, after discovering one terrarium I didn’t open for a bit, and well, the smell wasn’t pleasant. Now, it’s not to say that terrariums should always be aired out, because some terrarium designs are permanent, and they are closed permanently. When this happens, you need something extra for its longevity. This is for another topic, and I will discuss this in another entry.

This isn’t the only set of changes with propagations I’ve looked at. The sundews, a good majority of my spoon-leaved sundews died, but from what I found out, sundews of most varieties, can be propagated easily, because they really don’t need much to multiply themselves. In the right conditions, sundews can create clusters of themselves. I know this, because my first, and second, set of spoon-leaved sundews, came in clusters when they were shipped to me.

The conditions I had some of my sundews in, were an open terrarium, where the bottom and surroundings were made up of a similar combination of what I chose for my “string of turtle” cuttings. I used those, with also a couple of parlor palms, just for a different look. I didn’t see what was coming, which were ferns growing out of the sheet moss. Since the terrariums are clear glass, I can fill the bottoms just enough with water, so that the mosses can be soaked in water, along with the sundews. The sundews are also comfortable in boggy conditions, and the sphagnum moss holds lots of moisture, this is perfect to protect the plants from the drops in humidity outside of the terrarium. Win-win!

This worked so well, I’m trying the same template with some more sundews, that are separated from the ones in that open terrarium I just discussed. Since those developed clusters of sundews, all the more reasons to try this out, in another setting. Granted, this will be a bit smaller, but they will still have wet sphagnum moss, and sheet moss, as the base of the setup. For this however, I’ve placed some plastic wrap over the top of the container to start.

Before I’ve tried all of what I mentioned, I also had some other sundew propagations in water, that I transitioned in a mixture of sand and peat moss, and a lot of water. This was placed in a clear container with a lid. For a bit, I had them covered, but as soon as I removed the cover, many started drying out very fast. This may be due to the very low humidity, which made the timing quite bad, so, I replaced the lid that covered these plants. I periodically check on them to see if they will recover. If not, then I know what my mistake was, and I won’t make that mistake again.

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Successes: Propagations.

So far, propagations haven’t been my best results, but as always, this takes practice. For some plants compared to others, this method of making new plants, through the leaf cuttings of a bigger plant, often should work, if you do things right.

With the coleus plants, this has never failed me, and I’ve used water propagations to make this work. It is possible to use soil propagations, which have also worked with my coleus plants, but it hasn’t really worked for me with other plants, such as any of my carnivorous plants.

It’s been hit or miss, for most of my efforts with carnivorous plants, especially for my venus fly traps; none of which has shown a successful propagation for me just yet. The sundews haven’t been so successful either, until recently.

I’ve went through putting some remaining leaf propagations, and this of course requires three things, besides the leaf cuttings: a small container with a lid, distilled water (which may need to be refreshed every now and again), and some patience. It’s also best to have them under some adequate light source, to aid in making the propagations happen a bit faster. Often it takes well into a month before seeing any results.

What I did was take a cutting from a cape sundew, and it has to be a healthy leaf for it to work. Then, I placed it into distilled water, and then just wait. If I check back and see any murkiness, then it’s time to change the water. After a while, should there be anything different, such as seeing a little something on the leaf or leaves that wasn’t there before, that’s a good sign. Now, it’s a matter of how long do I leave it, before I bring it out to transfer into a plant pot. I’ll have to do a bit more research, to figure that out for myself.

What’s interesting about sundews, they can propagate in many different ways, which makes them easy to replicate and multiply. It can happen with growing flower stalks and begin flowering. These flowers self-pollinate, which means it doesn’t need to mix with other flowers, through standard pollination, either by insects or by hand. This will create the seeds, and all that’s needed is to collect them, or to let them spread out on their own.
Sundews can also replicate new sundews through the flower stalks, which helps. I haven’t seen this work, but I’ll definitely try it sometime.

To add to this, some sundews have been known for multiplying on their own, where under an existing sundew, will appear a smaller one. I’ve seen this with my spoon-leaved sundews, on several occasions.

So, just know that if there are successful periods of growth, you’ll experience the likelihood of continuous sundew growth and replication, for some time. The propagations will only aid in making this result happen even more. You just need the right conditions, and you’ll be good.

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Other Plants I Care For.

I’ve chosen to remove the green/white nerve plants from, “The Tank”, and place them in a separate plant pot.

I’ve mixed the soil, with some mosquito bits, to be a bit proactive in preventing any fungus gnats laying eggs to hatch into larvae making their way to eating away at the roots.
I’ll see how this works out, because removing my “inch plants”, seems to be a success. I’m hoping for the same with these plants.

I still have a few remnants of the green/white nerve plant in, “The Tank”, while the rest of the nerve plants in there are of the green/red variety.

“The Tank”, is looking more like a jungle, and I may or may not have mentioned this. The nerve plants, both types, some bloodleaf plants, parlor palms, peacock peperomias, string of turtles scattered, and creeping “jennys”, are growing endlessly. Just removing that big set of green/white nerve plants, leaves so much space currently. Not sure if I’m going to fill those spaces with new plants, or allow the rest of the plants to take on those spaces through propagations.

More to come, I guess.

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More Types Of Plants I Care For.

There is one particular plant that I’ve had for some time, and it’s been multiplying to the point, where I can’t keep them as I would like to. Thanks to keeping them in “The Tank”, they’ve been able to grow in abundance, and I’ve also watched several things occur during its growth. Because of the high humid environment inside of, “The Tank”, it can cause some plants to develop air roots, and grow quite nicely. This particular plant that I saw this in, grows quite fast. It’s so common to see this, in this particular species, it’s been given the nickname, “the inch plant”, because before you know it, it grows an inch from the last time you saw it. Its standard designation is tradescantia, and when it grows, it grows and it grows tall and fast.

I’ve not only been able to grow the initial plants, which were around three in the pot, they grew tall, to the point where I had to cut and propagate them in other areas of, “The Tank”. It didn’t take long for the tradescantia to root in the soil and then grow tall very fast. It’s just wild to see this. It took me some time to identify this one, because I just couldn’t figure out what to look for. It’s a good thing I am a recurring customer to the place where I initially bought this. Along with the parlor palms, and one red plant that I did buy from them the same time (3 for $10 at the time), it was a sight to see them grow the way that they did.

It was only a matter of time, before I had to remove the tradescantia, or a good set of them, from, “The Tank”. There maybe one or two propagations still in there, but I may remove those soon, because they are beginning to reach for the stars as well. Only difference, this one is also tangled between other plants, and even bending between those plants.

The red plant that was with those previously named, is nicknamed the bloodleaf plant, but is designation is also a nickname of sorts, Juba’s bush. This didn’t grow as fast in, “The Tank”, but it did grow, and eventually when it did start to grow, I also had to cut and propagate, like many other plants around them. Although, for one set, I’m starting to see some upward leaf curling, which isn’t a good sign. Hopefully I can remedy this, or replace the plant, with a recently rooted propagation.

THIS JUST IN: I have moved this particular plant, and placed it in an empty terrarium, with only peat moss and water, and I’m starting to see it improve. Also, I didn’t see the leaves change, so I did cut them off, so that it will begin growing new leaves. Some air roots are developing, which also shows that things are a little better for it.

It took some time for me to figure out what these were called. This way, if I needed to replace them, with a new purchase, then I would know what to ask for. I can’t say I would do so with the “inch plant”, because it grows almost like a weed, and it can propagate just as easily.

As for the parlor palms, it took some time, but once they begin to adapt inside of, “The Tank”, it was only a matter of time before seeing these plants begin to grow and display new growth. The shoots open up at the top, and eventually spread out; and with enough humidity and water in there, those leaves and the original plants increased in size. Not necessarily comparable to the “inch plant”, but its growth is still quite impressive. I’m just hoping it doesn’t outgrow its space, and touch the top of “The Tank”, like the “inch plant” often will. It’s getting very close to that, so I won’t be surprised if I have to remove some of them.

Another of these terrarium plants that I did buy, was the plant referred to as the, “peacock peperomia”, also known as the peperomia albovittata. This one tends to grow quietly, and I haven’t really noticed it for some time. Inside of, “The Tank”, I placed it in a corner, and it roots and grows with time. Nothing fast, but when you begin to notice something new, it’s spread out just enough for you to ask, “when did this happen?”

Propagating these plants, are just as easy, in this environment, because of the sustained humidity within, “The Tank”. I’ve done so for this one, maybe one time, and I have noticed that it did root quite fast already. Knowing that, it just means that I don’t need to do much in regards to having a separate area for it to grow, unless it becomes crowded. Right now, “The Tank” is becoming very crowded now, with additional plants mentioned in previous journals, so as far as I’m concerned, with these, and any terrariums that I’m using, I won’t really need to buy too many plants going forward.

I’m quite sure there are others, and it will take me some time to identify them, just like I did with the ones in this journal entry. Just know that plants of all varieties takes lots of time and patience to see any true results. Sometimes, the right environments can result in quicker results, and the right tools can aid in quicker, and better results.

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Flowering Part Two.

Most of us have seen plants flower, and it can be quite exciting, especially if you don’t see this very often, or haven’t seen this before. We should think of plants flowering, as both a good thing, and a bad thing. I will explain why this is.

You have many varieties of plants that do flower, and some that don’t. However, when you do see a plant flower, in your home, it often means you are doing something to aid in making the plant reach this goal. In some instances, it can be on purpose, versus, unintentionally. If you have a grow light, which can aid in making plants flower quite easy and fast, you will see this happen very fast. For some plants, like carnivorous plants for example, look at the venus fly trap, when the plant flowers, it will result in something both good and bad.

The good first. What’s good about seeing a VFT flower, is that you will see a different phase that this plant will experience. It takes a bit for the flower stalk to form, and that results in the next section, the bad. The bad, is that when you allow the flower stalk to grow, and depending on how you are growing your VFT, it can grow very tall, or maybe a few inches tall; 2 to 3 inches tall. It doesn’t take much, but allowing the flower stalk to grow, will take away from the traps growing, especially to full size. In some instances, the traps will stop growing, or slow down significantly, until the flower stalk is removed.

Although I did discuss most of this in the previous journal, the emphasis here, is more about the use of grow lights to speed up the process. Under other conditions, natural without such use of grow lights, this will not occur as fast, unless they are by a sunny window sill, or getting enough sun light nearest to whatever window is bringing in that sunlight.
In order to have the VFT grow traps properly, you need to cut the flower stalk, but also remember, if you have a grow light, refrain from using the setting that leads to pushing flowers in plants like these. Now, it’s not to say that you can’t use the flower stalk for propagation, which you can. I haven’t been successful with this – yet, but when I am, I’ll discuss it here.

Can I say this about other carnivorous plants? Maybe. I have sundews that have this same issue, but in a slightly different set of results. The sundews I have that are flowering right now, are of the drosera spatulata variety – the spoon-leaved sundews. These I have separated in several pots, and what I see currently, for these, are most of them pushing flower stalks. Some are continuously growing, while the leaves aren’t developing dew, or are developing dew at a very slow rate. For many of the sundew plants, when the leaves develop dew, the stems holding the dew will change to a reddish color with the dew staying clear looking more like water droplets; not all of them are this way, but I’ll explain what I mean.

There are other types of sundews, like the cape sundews, where they have some that do the same as the others, while there are some species that don’t change from green to red. The dew will be the same where they appear similar to water droplets. I have the white form cape sundew, where its leaves stay green, and the stems holding the dew, stays white. The typical cape sundew, the stems will turn red around the leaves that stay green. Now, I haven’t seen the cape sundews create flowers just yet, but when I do, I’ll discuss it here.

THIS JUST IN: My cape sundews are starting to push flower stalks. It’s curly at first, but it’s likely to stretch out and show something. In its curled state, I’m still seeing some beginnings to a flower developing, so it looks like it’s going to flower on both of my capes.

Point is, the sundews may slow down their dew production, when pushing flower stalks. Some are capable of both, while others, not so much.

We also have this issue more with pitcher plants, but I haven’t seen this for myself; not yet anyway. This does not just affect the growth of pitchers, but also the development of digestive fluid in existing pitchers. When I see this, I’ll discuss what I find here.

Having flowers grow, is often a trade-off of producing dew, or traps, which can be bad on the surface. Removing the stalks can be a quick enough fix, so that we can see the plants grow like they normally would. It’s even better for propagation, if it’s possible. VFT flower stalks are good for propagation, whereas sundew or pitcher plant flower stalks may not be. This isn’t about propagation, so I’ll move on.

For some other types of plants, non-carnivorous, you may not see this problem. I haven’t come across plants other than carnivorous ones that I’ve encountered with this problem. My coleus plants seem to be just fine, and I don’t feed them anything like fertilizer either. I’ve had some tropical plants or those that are in that setting, which is my big terrarium, “the tank”, where this isn’t the case. As stated, this may be an issue with the carnivorous plants making their ability to capture prey, being compromised from producing flowers. Since I haven’t see this with other types of plants, that I know of, it’s not really a trade-off in the same way it would be for carnivorous plants.

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Trays.

I cannot say much about this topic just yet, because I’ve only used trays for one application, so far. It’s not to say I cannot discuss my experience with using them, because I will.
I’ve used trays for easier hydration for my plants, but just know I use this method for a handful of plant varieties, not just carnivorous plants.

I know that the humidity tray method is often used, especially when the humidity is somewhat low around the plants. This involves trays filled with water and little rocks, pebbles, or gravel. Some are quite similar to aquarium pebbles or gravel; but it’s not to say that they cannot be used in place of these little rocks, pebbles, or gravel, because that’s what I’m using currently.

Trays can be used for a multitude of uses. Some are used for propagation, and some are used for long periods of hydration so that it’s not needed to constantly or frequently watering the plants.

In using these trays for watering plants, they obviously water from the bottom, which means that the top won’t be included in this process. This means, that it will require a top watering, or a spraying, to get the tops of the plants watered, which is fine, because whatever doesn’t touch the plants, will end up in the trays instead.

Some trays are meant for more than just holding water. Some may be used for other purposes, such as propagation, seeding, and just for keeping plants organized in a neat setup.

This is what you see with trays where people are seeding, and use them to space out their seeds for them to grow without being clustered and the roots potentially wrapping around other roots of other seeds beginning to root in that area. If it’s one or two, it’s not that big of a deal, but if it’s maybe five or more, then it can be an issue, if they are growing into separate plants. Which is why this can be a good solution to prevent that.

Some trays can be used for propagations, and growing moss. When looking at the process of growing microgreens, it’s not much different on the surface as growing live moss. (There may be more to this, so when I do find out, I’ll discuss it later.) Just have them in water, and have the tray covered. The tray can be one that has some partition between the outer tray and the plants intended for growth, where the water will go to the bottom of the tray, and hydrate and nourish the plants from the bottom. The top will be receiving any air and while covered, it will get the water evaporating and rising to the lid, and comes down on the tops of the plants. This way everything gets hydrated, but also humidity to accelerate that growth, which you see happen with plants in terrariums. For those that have holes in the lids, that’s for some of the air to escape, and eventually some of that moisture will also escape. Now, this will result in needing to refill the trays more often, but it’s good for preventing algae growth.

This isn’t a topic that I know much about. I’m still learning about topics like microgreens, and even growing live moss. The latter, I’ve tried, and it’s still in progress.

There are various uses for trays, besides organizing. When it comes to plants, you know of some, and other creative ways to make things better. Over time, I’ll find out more, to show you what I find.