Maintenance: “The Tank”.

Every now and again, plants need to be trimmed, pruned, and cut, for the sake of the health of the plant. This is no different for the plants within what I refer to as, “The Tank”. This is especially true for any instances of neglect, major or minor, as well as general care for the plants in there.

There are quite a few varieties of plants that I have in there, it’s often difficult to just cut what’s in there. When you have plants that have the tendency to grow continuously like a vine, you already know that those need to be trimmed.

I wasn’t feeling well, and when I was sitting out a month ago, I had some time to look at what I could not address right away. For one, during this time, my grow light wasn’t working properly, so I turned it off. As a result, because the plants didn’t get proper lighting, the leaves became a pale green, which isn’t a surprise. However, they continued to grow, because they still had their humidity. That eventually began to dry up, because of the continuous growth of the plants. Also, the plants weren’t getting enough light, and some of them trapped underneath one another, some leaves were withering away. Other plants and their leaves continued to grow without a problem.

The end result of it all became a decision of where to start trimming, and cutting. Most of the vines were of course the first priority to cut and trim. They were all over the place. Normally, letting these plants grow isn’t a problem, but because of a month’s hiatus, I had to go back to assess the situation. The issue comes with seeing just how much humidity was left in the tank. Surprisingly, there was still enough in there for the plants to thrive, prior to trimming and cutting.

While trimming and cutting, I of course reset the grow light to stay on 24/7, not because this is the plan, but because the light is damaged and needs replacing. It’s better for me to leave it on like this, and not to just leave off the light altogether. This way, the plants won’t be as pale as they are currently.

When I was finally able to see soil in enough areas within, “The Tank”, then I rehydrated the soil a bit more. I grabbed my pump sprayer to mist the area quite well. Then I replaced the lid on, “The Tank”, to keep the humidity inside and consistent.

My biggest challenge was to keep from trimming or cutting the wrong plants. It still happened, but not in such high frequency. There are some plants that are still quite tall, and are beginning to widen quite a bit. I have to make a decision of what’s going to happen next. I can trim and propagate, but that will mean removal of other plants that are especially growing tall, where I don’t want to remove nor replace. So, this will take some time to think about.

Until then, I’ll keep watch of the progress of re-growing some of these plants, and deciding potential locations to place some other plants. As long as they can be reacclimated properly, it will be a good result going forward.

Other Plants I Care For.

I’ve chosen to remove the green/white nerve plants from, “The Tank”, and place them in a separate plant pot.

I’ve mixed the soil, with some mosquito bits, to be a bit proactive in preventing any fungus gnats laying eggs to hatch into larvae making their way to eating away at the roots.
I’ll see how this works out, because removing my “inch plants”, seems to be a success. I’m hoping for the same with these plants.

I still have a few remnants of the green/white nerve plant in, “The Tank”, while the rest of the nerve plants in there are of the green/red variety.

“The Tank”, is looking more like a jungle, and I may or may not have mentioned this. The nerve plants, both types, some bloodleaf plants, parlor palms, peacock peperomias, string of turtles scattered, and creeping “jennys”, are growing endlessly. Just removing that big set of green/white nerve plants, leaves so much space currently. Not sure if I’m going to fill those spaces with new plants, or allow the rest of the plants to take on those spaces through propagations.

More to come, I guess.

More Types Of Plants I Care For.

There is one particular plant that I’ve had for some time, and it’s been multiplying to the point, where I can’t keep them as I would like to. Thanks to keeping them in “The Tank”, they’ve been able to grow in abundance, and I’ve also watched several things occur during its growth. Because of the high humid environment inside of, “The Tank”, it can cause some plants to develop air roots, and grow quite nicely. This particular plant that I saw this in, grows quite fast. It’s so common to see this, in this particular species, it’s been given the nickname, “the inch plant”, because before you know it, it grows an inch from the last time you saw it. Its standard designation is tradescantia, and when it grows, it grows and it grows tall and fast.

I’ve not only been able to grow the initial plants, which were around three in the pot, they grew tall, to the point where I had to cut and propagate them in other areas of, “The Tank”. It didn’t take long for the tradescantia to root in the soil and then grow tall very fast. It’s just wild to see this. It took me some time to identify this one, because I just couldn’t figure out what to look for. It’s a good thing I am a recurring customer to the place where I initially bought this. Along with the parlor palms, and one red plant that I did buy from them the same time (3 for $10 at the time), it was a sight to see them grow the way that they did.

It was only a matter of time, before I had to remove the tradescantia, or a good set of them, from, “The Tank”. There maybe one or two propagations still in there, but I may remove those soon, because they are beginning to reach for the stars as well. Only difference, this one is also tangled between other plants, and even bending between those plants.

The red plant that was with those previously named, is nicknamed the bloodleaf plant, but is designation is also a nickname of sorts, Juba’s bush. This didn’t grow as fast in, “The Tank”, but it did grow, and eventually when it did start to grow, I also had to cut and propagate, like many other plants around them. Although, for one set, I’m starting to see some upward leaf curling, which isn’t a good sign. Hopefully I can remedy this, or replace the plant, with a recently rooted propagation.

It took some time for me to figure out what these were called. This way, if I needed to replace them, with a new purchase, then I would know what to ask for. I can’t say I would do so with the “inch plant”, because it grows almost like a weed, and it can propagate just as easily.

As for the parlor palms, it took some time, but once they begin to adapt inside of, “The Tank”, it was only a matter of time before seeing these plants begin to grow and display new growth. The shoots open up at the top, and eventually spread out; and with enough humidity and water in there, those leaves and the original plants increased in size. Not necessarily comparable to the “inch plant”, but its growth is still quite impressive. I’m just hoping it doesn’t outgrow its space, and touch the top of “The Tank”, like the “inch plant” often will. It’s getting very close to that, so I won’t be surprised if I have to remove some of them.

Another of these terrarium plants that I did buy, was the plant referred to as the, “peacock peperomia”, also known as the peperomia albovittata. This one tends to grow quietly, and I haven’t really noticed it for some time. Inside of, “The Tank”, I placed it in a corner, and it roots and grows with time. Nothing fast, but when you begin to notice something new, it’s spread out just enough for you to ask, “when did this happen?”

Propagating these plants, are just as easy, in this environment, because of the sustained humidity within, “The Tank”. I’ve done so for this one, maybe one time, and I have noticed that it did root quite fast already. Knowing that, it just means that I don’t need to do much in regards to having a separate area for it to grow, unless it becomes crowded. Right now, “The Tank” is becoming very crowded now, with additional plants mentioned in previous journals, so as far as I’m concerned, with these, and any terrariums that I’m using, I won’t really need to buy too many plants going forward.

I’m quite sure there are others, and it will take me some time to identify them, just like I did with the ones in this journal entry. Just know that plants of all varieties takes lots of time and patience to see any true results. Sometimes, the right environments can result in quicker results, and the right tools can aid in quicker, and better results.

Flowering Part Two.

Most of us have seen plants flower, and it can be quite exciting, especially if you don’t see this very often, or haven’t seen this before. We should think of plants flowering, as both a good thing, and a bad thing. I will explain why this is.

You have many varieties of plants that do flower, and some that don’t. However, when you do see a plant flower, in your home, it often means you are doing something to aid in making the plant reach this goal. In some instances, it can be on purpose, versus, unintentionally. If you have a grow light, which can aid in making plants flower quite easy and fast, you will see this happen very fast. For some plants, like carnivorous plants for example, look at the venus fly trap, when the plant flowers, it will result in something both good and bad.

The good first. What’s good about seeing a VFT flower, is that you will see a different phase that this plant will experience. It takes a bit for the flower stalk to form, and that results in the next section, the bad. The bad, is that when you allow the flower stalk to grow, and depending on how you are growing your VFT, it can grow very tall, or maybe a few inches tall; 2 to 3 inches tall. It doesn’t take much, but allowing the flower stalk to grow, will take away from the traps growing, especially to full size. In some instances, the traps will stop growing, or slow down significantly, until the flower stalk is removed.

Although I did discuss most of this in the previous journal, the emphasis here, is more about the use of grow lights to speed up the process. Under other conditions, natural without such use of grow lights, this will not occur as fast, unless they are by a sunny window sill, or getting enough sun light nearest to whatever window is bringing in that sunlight.
In order to have the VFT grow traps properly, you need to cut the flower stalk, but also remember, if you have a grow light, refrain from using the setting that leads to pushing flowers in plants like these. Now, it’s not to say that you can’t use the flower stalk for propagation, which you can. I haven’t been successful with this – yet, but when I am, I’ll discuss it here.

Can I say this about other carnivorous plants? Maybe. I have sundews that have this same issue, but in a slightly different set of results. The sundews I have that are flowering right now, are of the drosera spatulata variety – the spoon-leaved sundews. These I have separated in several pots, and what I see currently, for these, are most of them pushing flower stalks. Some are continuously growing, while the leaves aren’t developing dew, or are developing dew at a very slow rate. For many of the sundew plants, when the leaves develop dew, the stems holding the dew will change to a reddish color with the dew staying clear looking more like water droplets; not all of them are this way, but I’ll explain what I mean.

There are other types of sundews, like the cape sundews, where they have some that do the same as the others, while there are some species that don’t change from green to red. The dew will be the same where they appear similar to water droplets. I have the white form cape sundew, where its leaves stay green, and the stems holding the dew, stays white. The typical cape sundew, the stems will turn red around the leaves that stay green. Now, I haven’t seen the cape sundews create flowers just yet, but when I do, I’ll discuss it here.

Point is, the sundews may slow down their dew production, when pushing flower stalks. Some are capable of both, while others, not so much.

We also have this issue more with pitcher plants, but I haven’t seen this for myself; not yet anyway. This does not just affect the growth of pitchers, but also the development of digestive fluid in existing pitchers. When I see this, I’ll discuss what I find here.

Having flowers grow, is often a trade-off of producing dew, or traps, which can be bad on the surface. Removing the stalks can be a quick enough fix, so that we can see the plants grow like they normally would. It’s even better for propagation, if it’s possible. VFT flower stalks are good for propagation, whereas sundew or pitcher plant flower stalks may not be. This isn’t about propagation, so I’ll move on.

For some other types of plants, non-carnivorous, you may not see this problem. I haven’t come across plants other than carnivorous ones that I’ve encountered with this problem. My coleus plants seem to be just fine, and I don’t feed them anything like fertilizer either. I’ve had some tropical plants or those that are in that setting, which is my big terrarium, “the tank”, where this isn’t the case. As stated, this may be an issue with the carnivorous plants making their ability to capture prey, being compromised from producing flowers. Since I haven’t see this with other types of plants, that I know of, it’s not really a trade-off in the same way it would be for carnivorous plants.

Flowering.

This isn’t a simple topic for me to discuss, because it doesn’t always come around for all plants; or at least not for all or even most of the plants that I have or had, that I have owned to some extent.

For the most part, with natural sunlight, and clean water (obviously), plants can eventually grow long enough and eventually, they can grow and produce flowers. Given the right media for the plants to grow in, along with the water and sunlight, this can happen, naturally, over time. It’s often different for most plants, and depending on weather conditions, you will see this happen eventually. However, if they are indoors, then it may take longer.
Of course, with the advent of using grow lights, of all varieties, you can advance this result much sooner, and not simply during the standard blooming seasons. For most plants, that is usually spring and summer.

For some of the plants that I have, they don’t flower at all. This doesn’t mean that your plants’ growth isn’t a success; that success can be something other than flowering. It can be large growth, and enough growth to show that the plants are happy and content to keep on growing. That’s fine. If you have a plant that you get in a small pot, that eventually is repotted, and grows to maybe close to five or to ten times its original size, and is also healthy, I think it’s safe to say, it’s a success.

For other plants, this can happen, and flowers can also appear and bloom. Many flowers that bloom, won’t stay around for very long. They are very nice to look at, and often in the best or most ideal of conditions, the flowers may last for a few days to a week; maybe longer depending on the plant. If it continues to bloom, almost non-stop blooming for some plant varieties, once a flower goes the distance, and eventually withers and/or falls off of the plant, it often is replaced with another flower, nearest or in the same point.

I’ve seen this personally with a few plants. One of them was a plant I had for the spring and summer of 2023, the kawaii soiree catharanthus, the white peppermint variety. This plant I bought randomly, and it was already flowering. After I repotted it, it didn’t bloom that much, but after enough time passed, some days it would bloom to see flowers increase. I bought the plant with maybe three or four flowers. I’ve seen it consistently blooming to replace flowers at a near record pace. At some points, it would bloom as many as seven, eight, or nine flowers at once. I’ll admit, the environment wasn’t ideal, but it was okay, but because of the grow lights, that was enough to make this happen.

I did mention earlier, that grow lights can influence flowering in plants, and for some, settings may or may not matter. For the white peppermint, this was made apparent, with the grow light bulb setup, in a window that wasn’t facing direct sunlight.

I had something similar to some extent, with another plant, which I salvaged off of another plant, and eventually it grew larger, and large enough to push flowers now. It’s been doing this, since I placed it in, “the tank”. The humidity, and the grow lights, helped speed up this result. I’ve seen this happen, after a few months, and it’s happening even more recently. It’s not just the fact that it’s flowering, but it’s also growing tall, to the point where it’s touching the top of the fish tank.

Of course, with sundews I’ve had in the past, and currently, the spoon-leaved variety, referenced as drosera spatulata, flower stalks will appear during its blooming season, which is often summertime. Getting direct sunlight will induce this, no matter where they are set to grow.

To add to this, I’ve had other spoon-leaved sundews, but under grow lights. I’ve had them well beyond their blooming season, but because they are under grow lights, certain settings under these lights, will induce flowering. For these plants, they will produce flower stalks prior to seeing actual flowers.

The one thing we know about most (if not all) carnivorous plants, flowers are produced away from the plants, so that they are well above the plant leaves, that capture their prey. This is true for sundews, and VFTs. Yes, even pitcher plants, nepenthes and sarracenias, may do this, although I haven’t yet seen this personally, but there’s still time.

Unfortunately, for carnivorous plants, there needs to be something sacrificed, when they produce flowers, or severely compromised. Most of its energy is often focused on traps, or creating dew or fluid to capture and digest their prey. Once the flower stalk comes, then most of the energy is transferred to growing the stalks, and then the flower after it blooms. This slows down everything else, and it doesn’t always lead to the plant’s demise, but it will take longer for the main priorities to focus on capturing and consuming prey, because of the energy distribution.

This can be remedied, by allowing the flower stalk to grow maybe an inch or more, then cutting the stalk closest to the base of the plant, then you can either propagate it, or dispose of it. Successful propagation of this, I haven’t had this occur just yet; but when I do, I’ll discuss it in another journal. After cutting the flower stalk, the main priorities of the carnivorous plants can be focused on again, where the energy isn’t spent on growing flowers anymore.

Other plants that have flowered quite well, are my coleus plants, where this took quite some time, because I didn’t have them under grow lights of any kind. It was direct sunlight only. This plant, which started out as two small plants. Now, as a result of propagations to produce many more additions, and repotting, eventually, this resulted in massive growth, and eventually, some flowers. These are my indoor window plants.

Understand, that most plants that can flower, will flower. Not all plant species can flower, but for the ones that do, it’s somewhat satisfying. Not all of the plants that flower will produced the best looking flowers. However, the job of those flowers, are often to attract insects that will aid in pollenating them. Just know that if you have an open window, and you all of a sudden have a problem with flies, bees, or even butterflies in your home, this is often why that is. If you have carnivorous plants, that problem can be solved, when those same bugs, end up becoming their meal; but I digress.

It’s safe to say that when you do see these plants flower, it can be satisfying to see them, but it can also show your success in growing them, to get them to this point, both naturally, and artificially.

Other Types.

There are a variety of plants that I have chosen to have in my home. I look at a few plants, that eventually just don’t make it. There may be reasons, that put them in the category of fickle, while other simply just don’t survive for very long. Now, you could put this under fickle plants, because there are some that are quite fickle with their environment, even when they eventually reach the point of flowering.

However, when it comes to fickle plants, most of us have been there. No matter how we care for them, try to keep them alive, some simply either can’t or won’t stay alive.

In many instances, it’s out of our control. However, if we can control the circumstances around us, it will take a lot of effort for little positive outcomes. In the end, the plant will still end up perishing. That happens, and it can happen with certain plants. Your environment often results in some plants either struggling and then dying, or being just fine, and can live for quite some time. For the ones that had the former result, I will discuss here.

Much of the environments can lead to good results as well as bad results. An example of this can lead to a plant thriving at first, but later on, you start to not see something happen, such as overall growth. If you have a set of plants that grow, but there’s one that doesn’t, you have to figure out why.

One for me was an air plant. For some it’s quite easy to maintain, but it’s not always the case, especially if you live in an area, or an apartment for example, that’s extremely dry. The air is so dry, that it can give certain people nosebleeds. That needs to be fixed with either a humidifier, and evaporative air cooler, or something that can lead to the air being of normal/moderate humidity, or slightly humid for the plants.

I’ve mentioned the notion of this air plant that I had, was fickle, and that requires explanation. The air plant that I bought is no different than any other, but I was given some advice, in regards to humidity making them grow quite fast, or at best showing to be greener and happier when it’s in a humid area. Every so often, air plants will need to be dried out, naturally. I made that mistake, in doing this a bit too late; so this may have been a mistake on my end. However, what I did realize when I didn’t see it grow, some cases, it’s recommended to pull off some of the outer leaves. When I did this, I saw some browning of where it should be rooted. By the way, air plants don’t have roots. Those leaves were coming off a bit too quickly, and this continued until there wasn’t anything left.

To a degree, it may not have been a fickle plant, but for me it was. I had it in, “the tank”, usually hidden under the fast growing plants around it. However, when I raised it to be closer to the midst of the environment, atop of some of the parlor plants, to get more light, this resulted in drying it out quite fast, becoming its default grey color, once again. It was in a very high humidity environment, where, “the tank” has an average humidity around 85%. It may have become temperamental because of being in that environment, but as stated earlier, it may have had a bit of rotting in the bottom of the plant, behind the outer layer of leaves. This may have been the sign that I could not see, that the plant may have been dying, and I couldn’t see that, until it was too late.

I’ve had my issues with succulents, and I had an issue with one type, where I did things right, and even tried to not water them too much. Keeping them in a dry air environment wasn’t an issue, but apparently it was, because they eventually died. Leaving an overwatered succulent to dry out, should be easy, but in some instances, it wasn’t the case for me. I didn’t have the succulents, and yes, I had maybe two or three, and all in open air environments, and no matter what I did, all of them died. I watered when needed, less frequently than the other plants. Just like with cacti, they can’t be watered too often; they need to be watered maybe weekly, bi-weekly or monthly. If the environment is dry, then maybe bi-weekly just to counter the dryness; which is better for most plants that prefer moderate to higher humidity.

For me, succulents don’t work. I can deal with cacti, but as long as I get the ones that don’t have fake flowers hot glued on them, it will be worthwhile, but for me, succulents are a no-go at this time. I can’t include those type of cacti, because they were manipulated, and damaged, and it’s not an issue of them being fickle, in my opinion.

When it comes to fickle plants, I can say with clear certainty, lavender plants are in this category, because no matter what I did, repotting, giving them good lighting and water, It still resulted in both plants dying. I bought two, and both of them dried up significantly. The problem here, was no matter what I did, nothing would work.

Lavender plants are no good in tropical environments, at least the ones I bought didn’t like high humidity. I tried propagating them, with a humidity dome and in soil, and it resulted in the plant developing mold, instead of rooting. I tried this without the dome, and just in water, and that didn’t work either. Many have tried these methods, and for them, they worked. For me, nothing worked. It was more stressful just trying to maintain them, and to keep them alive. After a while, I just gave up, because it wasn’t the water, and it wasn’t the lighting, and it couldn’t have been shock either. This plant simply didn’t want to be in the environment it was in.

I can also add the string of pearls, and although it is a good plant to have, where I live, it’s very fickle, and only lasted maybe a few months at best, before it finally shriveled up and died. It’s one of those semi-succulent types of plants, where they don’t really care for humidity, but require water and sunlight regularly. (Some say otherwise, but either way, I got the results that came with it.) Again, the issue may also have been the environment, because of its excessive dryness in the air around it. You can’t over water them, and you can’t keep them in bright sunlight either. You also can’t under water them, or keep them too dimly lit. Other people may have the opposite experience, and some of that maybe because of where they’ve chosen to keep these plants, but for me, it just didn’t work out, and now that plant is a distant memory. Yes, I did try propagating them, several times, but to no avail. Oh well.

I can say that I took a chance and bought a random set of plants from a plant vendor at Union Square, where they often have the Farmer’s Market. One of them I looked at was a plant that was already flowering, and it kept this up for a while. This was called a Kawaii Soiree, or Kawaii Catharanthus, and it’s also called, “white peppermint”. I can’t say much about this. Right now it’s pretty much gone, just like the lavender. Only difference, it wasn’t truly that fickle, because it spent the entire summer just flowering, and it was only once the weather got a bit colder, it chose to change, and not for the better. It gave me no trouble, until maybe late September, and after that, it was nothing I could do. I want to say that it went dormant, but I’m sure that’s not what happened.

For some plants, you can be doing everything right, including adjusting the humidity in your home, and it will still not work for some plants for whatever reason. I will admit, there may have been things and assumptions on my end, this is especially the case with the air plant. For the others, they simply didn’t want to be there, or they simply couldn’t adjust. You know it looks bad, when you have them in different settings, and no matter what you do, they both end up dying anyway. That proves why some plants simply aren’t compatible with some areas, no matter what you do to accommodate them.

Could some of them die, because of an infestation that you cannot see? It’s been said to be the case for a few plant enthusiasts. I’ll have to look into this personally.